Xaver Bongard

Biography

Xaver Bongard, born December 21, 1963, in Fribourg, is a Swiss mountaineer, ice climber, and BASE jumper, renowned for his innovative spirit and significant influence on the world of mountaineering. Nicknamed "Toto" by his family, he grew up in a German-speaking family and learned French in elementary school. At the age of twelve, he joined the Fribourg section of the Swiss Alpine Club and began training in the limestone cliffs of the Gastlosen. By eighteen, he had already completed major ascents such as the North Face of the Eiger and the Walker Pillar in the Grandes Jorasses. A metallurgist by training, he often modified and manufactured his own mountaineering equipment, a testament to his creativity and technical excellence. Between 1983 and 1993, Bongard built an international reputation thanks to numerous expeditions and firsts, notably on Baffin Island, in Yosemite with several solos on El Capitan, and in the Karakoram, where in 1992 he made the first ascent of the northeast pillar of the Great Trango Tower with John Middendorf. He also created, with Michael Gruber, the famous ice route "Crack Baby" on the Breitwangflue, which has become a classic of the discipline. A passionate BASE jumper, in 1990 he became the first Swiss to jump from El Capitan in Yosemite, and later helped establish the Lauterbrunnental as a BASE jumping hotspot in Switzerland. Bongard was recognized for his creative approach to the mountains, his humility, and his ability to inspire others, especially young climbers like Stephan Siegrist. A year after obtaining his UIAA mountain guide diploma, he died on April 15, 1994, during a jump from the Staubbach site in the Lauterbrunnen Valley, following a technical incident with his parachutes. His death marked the first BASE-jumping fatality in Switzerland and left a lasting mark on the alpine community.

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